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Last edited by:
18 July 2008
First added by:
18 July 2008
The scene before me is decidedly grey: water dominates the landscape, as rain falls heavily and haphazardly, bending trees beneath the determined downwards drive of these relentless raindrops. Further from the foreground, looking across the park, the river continues its journey seaward. It is untroubled by the extremes of weather, which is to be expected for it is now in its element. It reflects the grey of the sky. The trees and plants are acquiring the colour: they are becoming grey-green like untended statues that have surrendered to nature. When the sun is shining, the view is altogether much more rustic: the trees frame the river to give a red, orange, yellow, brown and green backdrop to the blue-brown water. You can see birds flying, and animals breaking the stillness of the park with their energetic embrace of nature. When winter arrives, the fog can settle so thick over the river some days that it is a permanent shroud of grey, cloaking the park to preserve the dusk of the day before. This marble effect can be quite beautiful, in that way that nature’s unusual beauty will be known when one walks amidst it. For what is beauty if not the transient, the mortal, the fleeting?
The sound intensifies, and with it the volume of water. It streams into the window, corrupting the view to produce that hazy, dream-like time-travel effect associated so often with early television serials. Well, they do advertise Hamilton with the tag-line “City of the Future”. Of course, the promise of forthcoming prominence does not really answer the often asked question “so what exactly do you people do for fun?”
Indeed, Hamilton’s strength seems to lie not in its attractions, but in its proximity to other attractions: it is within two hours drive from Raglan, Tauranga and Auckland. For an atmospheric day trip, why not follow the antique trail through Cambridge and Tirau? If your interests are less sedate, you might try walking around Bridal Veil Falls, or hiking up Mount Pirongia. Ah yes, Hamilton is a wonderful launch point. Indeed, on a good day with little traffic and unhampered by stop lights, you could probably drive through the town in fifteen to twenty minutes.
But why measure your progress by the kilometre? Why not trade the exhilaration of swift passage through the town (which, let’s be honest here, wouldn’t be so swift with peak-hour traffic being the way it is) for the refined elegance of a paddle steamer? The MV Waipa Delta offers a cruise along the River, which provides a unique dining experience seldom experienced elsewhere. It has become an iconic part of Hamilton’s identity, and is a nice way to acquaint yourself with the some of the more picturesque features of the city. It departs from Memorial Drive, and – depending on whether you opt for the lunch or dinner cruise – could be combined with an exploration of Memorial and Parana Parks, the latter having a playground area for children.
With the kids in mind, why not check out Hamilton Lake. Picturesque and well-patronised, the lake can be strolled around comfortably, and there are trains to hitch a ride on and rose gardens you could wander around. With a large children’s playground it is decidedly child-friendly and there are always young ones feeding the ducks. Usually you can find boat enthusiasts on the weekends, and there are frequently kayaks to be seen and paddle-bikes (which are available for hire at a modest rate).
Probably Hamilton’s most popular attraction is the Hamilton Gardens. With Indian, English, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, American, Vegetable, Rose and Herb gardens, there is something for every taste. The greenhouse shelters the tropical and other temperamental plants and has a cactus exhibit that always impresses me. Ah cactus, you are appealingly alien and fascinating. There’s also a Russian Bell Tower, Turtle Lake, the famous Romulus and Remus statue that kept being stolen when it was first introduced, and the ever popular Summer Festival hosted in the Gardens every February. Featuring concerts, theatre, comedy performances, sculpture, and street performers (including humans portraying statues), the festival fosters artistic contributions to city life. For me, the highlight has always been the summer Shakespeare, which features several performances, including one at dawn. Visiting the Gardens is free, and the events are usually free or donation entry. Certain musicians or plays may be more expensive, but there are quality acts for every budget.
I have a friend who likes to check out the weddings held in the Gardens. A popular venue, especially as a backdrop for photographs, she tells me you can legitimately (after all, the Gardens are open to the public) rubber-neck, and it’s apparently quite entertaining. Wouldn’t be my thing (I’d feel weird and out of place) but I guess it’s a kind of theatre, not unlike summer Shakespeare? Well, that’s probably a bit of a stretch…maybe stick with the wedding pages in the newspaper?
The Waikato Museum is always worth a look, and won’t make you feel remotely weird about your curiosity. Entry is free, although certain exhibits may attract a small fee, and donations are always appreciated. It is home to Te Winika, one of the best preserved Maori war canoe (“waka’) from pre-colonial times, which is essential viewing. As children, my peers and I were always taken to the museum on “field trips” to view various exhibits (no doubt teachers planned our studies around the upcoming exhibits) and we always stopped off to look at Te Winika. For us, it provided some context that pictures in books cannot, and it also fired our imaginations. Often museum exhibits can be too complex for children, but what’s good about the Waikato museum is that it tries to cater to a wide audience. Science comes alive with the Exscite programme, and its science in that fun way that adults and children both relate to: science that encourages curiosity.
There have been a number of interesting exhibits over the years: the costumes from the performances of the Royal New Zealand Ballet, the “Chinese Splendour” collection of ancient Chinese artefacts, displays celebrating “rural New Zealand”; the museum strikes a nice balance between fascinating exhibits of overseas origin and those New Zealand-focussed displays that help us to understand our own story.
The museum has exhibited local artists, making an important contribution to preserving and appreciating the works of some of the lesser-known artists New Zealand has produced. Next to the museum is the Arts Post gallery, which showcases contemporary local art. Given that it is so close to the museum, it makes sense to visit both of them. Where the museum tends to focus on a period or theme, Arts Post usually has a variety of works to view.
Now, the great joy of museums and galleries is that they are like large picture books: they give you detail without overpowering you, and allow up-close inspection of the subject – and if models are used, this effect is intensified. Yet even the most devoted and interested viewer has to have breaks, and I often find that, no matter how fascinating the exhibit, after a couple of hours in a museum I need time outside. Fortunately, the museum sits right above the Waikato River, and a short walk will have you down by the riverbank, which can be walked along with comparative ease now that the river walkway has been completed. On a nice day it is refreshing to walk along with the current, taking in the view of the river or checking out the houses that overlook it, and with so many other cyclists and walkers using the path it is a nice return to the sunshine and society after nourishing your mind on the artefacts.
If you’d prefer to walk the streets, why not stop off on Victoria Street and check out Riff Raff: in 2004, Hamilton honoured Richard O’Brien (a former resident) with a life-size bronze statue of him as Riff Raff (from his famous work The Rocky Horror Picture Show). Designed by WETA Workshops, who found fame with their work on the Lord of the Rings films, the statue always attracts interest, and many people (especially after drinking) make sure to immortalise themselves and Riff Raff with some happy snaps. The location is significant, as the statue stands where the Embassy Cinema used to be, which is where O’Brien used to watch science fiction-double features, and which (we like to think) inspired him to greatness.
There are a number of events on in Hamilton. A good place to start your search to see what sort of events interest you is the “What’s On?” website (www.whatsonhamilton.co.nz) which keeps you up-to-date with everything from the small book fair and farmers’ market type activities to larger events, and Hamilton has more of these than you might expect. The Parachute music festival is held in January and attracts quite the crowd: it has only recently moved to Hamilton, reflecting the need to provide a bigger venue to cater to the increasing interest. It’s a Christian music festival and promotes itself as an alternative to the “sex, drugs and rock ’n roll” culture that sometimes tags other events, and attracts a number of international acts.
April 2008 saw Hamilton’s inaugural hosting of the V8 Supercars Race. This was a very popular event and, while it is too soon to tell whether that popularity will be matched in coming years, positive word-of-mouth should ensure that interest in the event remains high. Car racing also features in August with a leg of the World Rally championship being held here.
April is a good month to visit the city, because additionally to the V8s is the “Balloons over Waikato” festival. It is officially held over five days during autumn (but seems to last much longer) and attracts both local and overseas balloonists. The Darth Vader balloon floated over our house this year, and was very impressive. They should have had it playing audio quotes from Star Wars though! There are sunrise and sunset launches, a balloon basket parade, lighting of balloons in the “Night Glow” and a morning “Dip in the Lake” competition where balloonists must try to secure a key placed on the lakebed.The Festival estimates visitor numbers of around 100,000, and balloon events are free (allthough you have to pay for balloon rides).
If you’re into agriculture, the National Agriculture Fieldays might be just your thing. There is a strong science and technology focus, and there are trade stands from over 1000 businesses. Visitors who aren’t farmers are also catered for with sheepdog trials and tractor contests to view, and the event is one of those things that you can’t not go to if you grow up in Hamilton.
If you’re more interested in large cats than cattle, Hamilton Zoo makes a nice day out to observe some of the world’s more exotic creatures. It is situated on Brymer Road in the suburb of Rotokauri and is home to many species of birds, to its well known Sumatran tigers, and to a reptile house where you can view the very rare native survivor of the dinosaur age, the tuatara. As a child I loved the tigers, but couldn’t see why everyone liked the monkeys – they seemed manic, as if they were always about to do something dramatic, which scared me. I liked the giraffes as well – so elegant, and placid seeming. Yes, there’s an animal for everyone, and with admission of $12 adult, $6 child and $36 family, the price is well within the reach of most visitors.
Now, not everyone loves animals and plants, so what about the keen sports fan? The aforementioned motor racing may rev your engine, while cricket, netball and rugby (our summer and winter games) are the mainstays of our sporting calendar. However, our soccer is growing in popularity, and in October of this year Hamilton is hosting the U-17 FIFA Women’s World Cup. There are a number of golf courses, and Te Rapa pools ensures swimmers are well looked after.
The Founders Theatre, Clarence St Theatre, and The Meteor Theatre are all known as venues for plays, and local amateur dramatics groups are known to put on quire good performances. I had a friend who used to act in Riverlea Theatre’s productions, and thought they were quite entertaining. There are film festivals and the FUEL theatre festival to ensure Hamilton’s cultural awareness doesn’t wane, and November’s Great Race between Waikato University’s rowing team and an international crew (in the past Oxford, Cambridge and Harvard and the University of Washington have competed) is a highlight of the social calendar.
The appropriately named Temple View suburb is home to the New Zealand Temple of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (more commonly referred to as “the Mormon Temple”). It was built by missionaries, and opened in the late 1950s, and looks just like something out of an American magazine: a huge white building Every Christmas there is a Christmas Lights display, which has become quite famous throughout the country. All the trees around the Temple are decked out in lights, and although the symmetry of the same lights decking out tree after tree seems more inspired by Las Vegas than haphazard human handling, it really is a rather amazing display and a unique experience. Many of the houses in Temple View are also decked out in lights with snow globes, Nativity scenes, even the odd large animal (still not too sure how the polar bear fitted in…), so make sure to see them before electricity starts being rationed!
From holy-rollers to high-rollers, Hamilton’s casino offers the rustle of the money and the chink of the dice. Gambling not your thing? Perhaps shopping would appeal more? Shops cater to all budgets, and many interests: check out Centreplace, Downtown Plaza, and the Victoria Street stores: with plenty of variety, a window-shopping excursion could easily make your wallet less weighty!
How about a nice meal out? There are plenty of restaurants to choose from, many in the Hood Street/Victoria Street end of town. Take your choice, for many are very good, but perhaps think about checking out the Enjoy Waikato website (http://enjoywaikato.co.nz/cgi-bin/ew/ew.cgi) which has customer reviews, and may aid your selection. Given that socialising often revolves around drinking and eating, it makes sense to sample the cuisine on offer. The Wild food Festival (usually held around July or August) is worth looking into, as it provides the opportunity to expand your palette with unusual food combinations.
It’s funny how you can think of all these things to do when you can’t do them! The rain is easing off though, so I might go for a walk along the river soon. There’s always something different to see, and I think that’s what I love most about the river: it seems to be alive. It’s like a large vein running through the heart of New Zealand, and while it might not get the first mention in your guidebook, that’s to be expected: when asked what’s your best feature, would your first thought be “my heart”? Yet your heart is vital to your experiences, and so, too, Hamilton, our rural heartland, ought to be a vital part of anyone’s experience of New Zealand.
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