Not so long ago this land saw the throng and bustle, blood and tears of ship deserters, whalers, sealers and sailors. The Bay of Islands, birthplace of New Zealand as we know it today, was once a bustling seafaring and political base fusing Maori and European culture. Now it is a place of holiday fun and water adventures, refined food and wine pleasures and quiet contemplation of the past.
Several towns are scattered like shells around the coast, each with its own individual feel. There's the main holiday town Paihia - a vibrant, uptempo place and a few minutes away elegant Russell, once a whaling town, now a tranquil oasis.
It's a sweet irony that the town described in the lawless late 1800's as 'the hellhole of the Pacific' is now one of the country's most refined places to visit. In Russell, our colonial past is honoured in our present with carefully restored historic buildings such as Christ Church with its bullet holes from the Maori Wars.
In Waitangi amid a quiet reserve you'll find the Treaty House and a fully-carved Whare Runanga, or Maori Meeting House. Waitangi is the historic site where Maori chiefs and European representatives signed the charters that formed our governing agreement, the Treaty of Waitangi, in 1840.
This was years after the initial conflict created by the arrival of French navigator Marion de Fresne in 1772 which resulted in bloodshed of both Maori and Europeans. Later came religious leaders like Australian Anglican missionary Samuel Marsden in 1814 and the first Roman Catholic Bishop of the south-west Pacific, John Baptist Francis Pompallier. Bishop Pompallier was respected by Maori chiefs and European leaders alike and was present at Waitangi.
Less than 15 minutes drive from Waitangi and you're in Kerikeri. This fertile orchard town is also an artist's retreat with an arts and crafts trail as well as wineries, the magnificent 27m Rainbow Falls and nearby kauri forest, Puteki. If Bay of Islands is a magnet for boaties, the town of Opua has the greatest pull with every kind of boat to be found in its safe harbour. This is the way you come to Bay of Islands by boat. And if you come by road, your gateway is Kawakawa.
It's extraordinary that amid all the colonial history of this area in this township you’ll find the only building in the Southern hemisphere designed by Austrian artist, Frederick Hundertwasser and the last of his buildings before he died in 1999. Even more curious, is the public toilet.
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This town is full of character and flavour
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Kerikeri was home ground for the fearsome Hongi Hika, a Maori chief who terrorised many tribes throughout the North Island in the early 1800s. Yet he was kind to missionaries - allowing Samuel Marsden to establish New Zealand's second mission station here.
Kerikeri overflows with orchards and galleries, fruit and art. All along the roadside, orchards sell their delicious oranges, kiwi fruit and avocados. Follow the art and craft trail and you'll get to know some of the artisans. Visit the wineries, lunch in one of the many outdoor cafés, indulge in delicious handmade chocolates or locally made macadamia liqueur. Kerikeri also has excellent sporting facilities including golf, all-weather tennis and yachting. Expect a good choice of cafés and restaurants.
Historical highlights of Kerikeri: the Kerikeri Mission House, the country's oldest house built by John Butler in 1821, and the Mission's Stone Store dating from 1832 and New Zealand's oldest stone building. These wonderful buildings are regarded as the "Cradle of the Nation", and are must for all visitors to the Bay of Islands.
Within minutes by car or an hour's walk from the Kerikeri Basin car park is the 27 metre Rainbow Falls. Further afield lies the Puketi Forest, an ideal place to tramp and view kauri trees from a boardwalk which also has wheelchair access.
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Learn about an important New Zealand history milestone
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Truly one of New Zealand's most historic sites, being the place where both Maori and European joined in signing the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840. The Treaty House is located amongst a vast peaceful estate which includes a fully carved Maori Meeting House, one of the largest Maori War Canoes and a Visitor Centre and Gallery. The estate is a must see for any visitor interested in New Zealand's history and culture.
The Treaty made New Zealand a British colony and is generally considered the founding document of New Zealand as a nation. Waitangi Day is the annual celebration of the signing, and is New Zealand's national holiday.
The Waitangi Golf Course Course is located in a wonderful setting with majestic ocean views. And for a deeper understanding of how mangrove forests fit into coastal ecology, take a trek through to Haruru Falls or join a guided kayak tour.
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Historic buildings and a seaside setting give Russell a romantic personality
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A quick ferry ride across the water from Paihia is the charming, elegant township of Russell. This tranquil place was once known as "the hell hole of the Pacific" when it was the shore leave destination for sailors, whalers and traders during the 19th century. Later it became the first capital of New Zealand.
Today Russell is a holiday town, with plenty of shops, restaurants and bars and is still a favoured spot for boaties who seek safe anchorage. Historic buildings to visit include the Catholic Mission "Pompallier" and Christ Church, which still carries the bullet holes from the Maori Wars. Discover Russell's exciting past by visiting the museum, cafés, restaurants and craft galleries, while appreciating its colonial architecture.
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If you want to discover the coves and beaches of the Bay of Islands, Paihia is a good place to start
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Paihia is known as the jewel of the magnificent Bay of Islands. With shimmering safe waters and superb beaches Paihia is a good place to be based for your Bay of Islands experience.
Take a relaxing walk along unspoilt beaches, take a guided tour through historical sites or go fishing. If adventure is what you seek, perhaps try skydiving, parasailing, scuba diving or kayaking. Top local adventures include cruising to the ‘hole in the rock’ at the tip of Cape Brett, finding dolphins (and maybe swimming with them) and sea kayak tours.
Paihia is the place of friendly locals, happy cafés and people enjoying life. Whether it is swimming with delightful dolphins, taking in a spot of retail therapy or just lazing under a tree, Paihia is the place for it.
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Spectacular Falls
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Haruru Falls today is a small residential settlement, about three kilometres inland from its larger neighbour, Paihia. You can walk to Haruru Falls along the Waitangi walking track, or drive to Haruru Falls township - which is only 3 kilometres from Paihia.
Haruru means "big noise." The water falls in a horseshoe shape - very rare and quite spectacular - and Maori legend states that a taniwha (water monster) lives in the lagoon below.
In the 1800s, there were over 100 Maori villages along the Haruru Falls river. Haruru Falls was also New Zealand’s first river port for Maori Tribes and early vision boats.
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For those who arrive in the Bay of Islands by sea, Opua is your port
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Opua is where the boats live - yachts, launches, ferries and runabouts of every description. On the wharf, a number of charter companies offer yachts you can sail yourself. A new 240 berth marina is now complete so with the friendly yacht club, the boat haul-out yards and extensive marine services, Opua is a delightful safe-haven for any sailor. It is also where you catch the car ferry if you want to drive to Russell.
Opua was first a stronghold of the Ngati Hine people, the rugged bluff of Puketiti offering a 360 degree vantage point. Purchased by Henry Williams in 1831 on behalf of the Church Mission Society, the area became a no-man's land and was referred to as One Tree Point after a large pohutukawa tree growing at the foot of the cliff.
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Home to the famous Hundertwasser-designed public toilets
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Gateway to the Bay of Islands, Kawakawa is marked by its unique entrance sign, an arch constructed in the style of Frederick Hundertwasser. Kawakawa is home to the famous Hundertwasser-designed public toilets - a definite must on your itinerary. This is the only building in the Southern Hemisphere designed by the Austrian born artist and is the last building he designed before he died in 1999.
Visit the Museum in the old Memorial Library (open Thursdays & Fridays) for a glimpse of Kawakawa's coal mining history. The railway line running through the centre of town to Opua is a remnant of those times. Unfortunately maintenance requirements mean that regular trips to Opua by Gabriel, the renowned steam train, will not be taking place at present, however the station is open and welcomes visitors.
The Kawiti Caves are a few kilometres south of Kawakawa; they’re also known as the Waiomio Caves. This cave system attracts many visitors with its bizarre karst features, stalactite formations and spectacular glow worm display. The family running tours of the cave are descendents of Chief Kawiti, a hero who fought alongside Hone Heke at Ruapekapeka. The meeting house and marae complex at the caves are his memorial.
A highlight of the tour is an encounter with a friendly eel, the guardian of the cave. Once inside you’ll discover ‘inner space’ in the glow worm cave. The ceiling of the cave looks like the night sky - each glow worm is a blue-green coloured star. 'Arachnocampa Luminosa' is a glow worm unique to New Zealand. It is the larval stage of a two winged insect that emits light to attract food.
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